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Tag Archives: weddings
Workshop – Colour and Light.
Colour and Light with Dave Piper,
An afternoon day-workshop with myself, we shall go over the many ways to use light to creative effect. Simple, Fast effective tips and methods to enhance any photo shoot.
We will cover:
- Using Studio lighting, Daylight and other lighting ideas split into 2 sessions.
( 3 hours each )
- Using different camera settings to creative affect.
- What is light, how does it work, what does it mean.
- One to One Q&A.
- Models and Locations to shoot with. ( If you wish to just come along and shoot with the models, This can be arranged also.)
We can look after newbies with simple things like, What is TTL flash, to off camera flash, bouncing, reflectors, colour gels to big multiple Lighting set-ups.
The workshop – will be in Birmingham on the 30th of OCT, 2010. The Location will be disclosed to those who book, or e-mail to ask. Starting at 12:45 till 6:00. Studio lighting in the Afternoon, Off-camera flash and daylight in the morning. We can hold individual portfolio reviews before 1:00 if you wish, just please let me know and this can be worked in for you. A break down of the day can be provided on request.
Please send questions to Dave@davepiper.org.uk – PLACES ARE VERY LIMITED – £55.00 per place per session, £90 when booked together. After the workshop is done we can head for dinner
Tagged birmingham, camera settings, camera workshop, colour workshop, creative workshop, Dave Piper - Latest Work, Daylight, Edits, Lighitng and colour, lighting, Music Photography, photographer, Photographers, Photography, Photoshop, photoshop info, Photoshop tutorial, portrait workshop, Studio lighting, teaching, wedding photographer birmingham, wedding photography, weddings, workshop
Colleen Deary – Model Shoot
“The Cage”
Colleen and I got bored one morning, So we decided to have a photo shoot around the house, Enjoy.
All these were shot at 50mm f1.4. i just love the super soft depth of field that this little gem of a lens gives you.
All natural light with a very minor filter effect added using Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop.
Blue Pearl | LABB PREVIEW !!
Every now then we get some extra special work come in to LABB , we have a little section called LABB LOVES.
LABB certainly loves the BLUE PEARL. Created by Danish Photographer Flemming Fals Bahrt Leitorp, The BLUE PEARL spread is fantastic addition to the TEXTURE volume of LABB.
BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE LABB WEBSITE FOR DETAILS
How to Make a Killer Promo Shot – Digital Artwork
Do you own a Nightclub in Ibiza? Want to make your own Promo Artwork, SIMPLE ! Just follow my 4 step plan !!
One model, One camera, One Studio , One computer , CS3 or 4 (photoshop) and10 mins ! Thats all you need , Sorta…
Its been a while since my last Photoshop blog, so i wanted to create something fun for everyone !! Because I am nice like that.. I thought summer style Party Promo Club might be just the thing to bring summer here ! Lets make a HEDKANDI STYLE PHOTO !!
So then STEP ONE !!
Find a model, my lovely model was Nicola Stevens, My photo was taken f4.8 @ 135mm, A little light from either side and a blue gel from the back. A fan was used to lift the hair. The photo was kept darker to enusre no detail was lost . I knew there was going to be loads of post pro , so i was not too worried about make up. It was more of a snap than a proper Photo Shoot…..
Once you have your photograph, Pop into into photoshop direct. Edit up the skin, Make up , body shapes, and all the stuff that you want to do. I use a few ticks using lens blur layers after a good going over with the stamp tool
Blur sharpen, repeat… If you do wanna know more about this, section… fire me an e-mail or get a make-up artist !!
STEP TWO !!
Create 2 new layers -
Make some funky over lays and pretty patterns. This is very random and hit or miss. I kept very simple and created two quick elements that sit into my comp.
These elemets very very simple and created using the Brush tool and some very simple layer styles, a simple inner glow and outer glow, A flip into screen colour mode and your done.
Lets work on the lighting cord. (Pen tool> creat wiggle>remove sections behind arm>add layer style) I used a custom shape brush and a Wacom Tablet set on the airbrush mode to let me fade in and out, a nice soft brush does work well here.
Here I again made a custom brush for my fake Bokeh effect. (create brush shape>edit brush settings>paint>done !!) Once you have your settings for the brush its half the battle. You dont have to make your own brush.. but i think its cool. The settings… F5 will make your brush manager pop if you have not got it open. play around with some stuff in there like size and shizzle.. I dont really want to say what i used.. just play and see. Its a very very Powerful tool.
After you have made your layer, add about 3 or 4 more layers.. paint some whacky colours on there (one colour per layer) , Pop them into colour mode (blending layer) and see your Bokeh colour up !! This should start to colour your background photo now too..
STEP THREE !!
Colour up your photo and merge it all !!
You should almost have your comp done.. A few more colour layers set to Colour blend mode and some more whacky colours should start to build up the over all photo..
Dont be worried if your photo looks like this !! its cool.. Build it up duplicate the layer, add some Lens Blur, Screen mode , sharpen this.. add that and add back in your elements you make and Bingp Bango
Watch it all come together..
STEP FOUR !!
Opps.. ok .. so only 3 steps.. Erm.. ADD MORE LAYERS , work some cool layer styles and build build build !! Dont be worried about trying things ! I have about 20 odd layers in mine.. some pure blue layers, some blurred up layers. Lots of screen mode layers. God Bless the Alpha Channel !!
Thank you !! send me your versions !!
Lightroom – Workflow
Adobe Lightroom 2 +
Just some workflow insight ,
I have been a HUGE fan of Lightroom for a while. Proof checking, editing, printing, web gallery creation, the list of time saving functions is crazy. If your a Pro photographer and your not using Lightroom, your doing something wrong. If your working with a batch of frames, Photoshop is only really used in a final editing stage. Most of my edit work happens with in Lightroom these days.
There are a few functions that I would still love to see in Lightroom, It would be great to able to run Photoshop actions (using the photoshop engine) inside Lightroom, Add layer styles, create comp layers also, it would be really cool to able to sync your Presets into layer styles in Photoshop. Just some of these little additions would make Cross Platform (cross software) editing much streamlined projects when colour matching is important. Using the correct tool for the correct job. Why use Photoshop for simple things like contrast changes.
Anyway, here is some Lightroom fun , You can put the Web module of Lightroom into “advanced mode” (an “experimental and unsupported” feature – so try this at your own risk) which will expose MANY more customization options in the Lightroom panels.
To go into Advanced Mode you’ll need to use a keyboard combo:
“Control Alt Shift /” on PC
“Cmd Alt Shift /” on Mac
Do the same to Return back to the normal version.
I get asked alot, what the best editing processes are , Its really simple. Do whats best and most logical for you. I use this work-flow as a rule
Adobe Bridge > Lighroom > Photoshop > Lightroom > Bridge
Bridge -
I use Bridge to remove blank frames or frames that are clearly not useable, Rename files and upload into Lightroom a quick selection of photos that are going to be edited.
Lightroom -
Lighroom is used to pull out a final selection of photos, Crop and Colour the photos, Overall pages edits are done. Vignettes, tones, curves, hue, saturation and Camera Calibrations are also done ( I never sharpen at this stage !!- you only ever want to sharpen a Final Product. Its always the last step. If you are not going into Photoshop after, then finish your photo in Lighroom )
Photoshop -
There is no way I could list the steps in here of what can you can do. As a rule though, Skin is touched up and sharpened for which ever media the product is headed towards, Change colour Sets depending on the Products destination ie : RGB or CYMK etc..
After this stage no other editing process should be needed.
Lightroom -
Back into lightroom to make batch size changes, Create Web Galleries, Contact sheets, Slide shows etc..
Bridge -
Bridge is then used as the content management tool, Using the Pre-made Actions you can send photos into other programs such as Photoshop to add watermarks borders, Prep for web, Border or any other Presets that you use.
Each stage is very important, and should leave you with a clear workflow. Pick the Photos, Edit the Photos, Make them PERFECT, Edit them for purpose. Store them in a correct manner.
If you use your noodle, you should not go far wrong. Just do what works for you, but ONLY IF YOU ARE USING LIGHTROOM !!
Tagged adobe, birmingham, bridge, Dave Piper - Latest Work, Lightroom, Lightroom 2, Lightroom tips, Music Photography, Photographers, Photography, photography workflow, Photoshop, Photoshop Actions, Photoshop tutorial, Punk Rock, wedding photographer birmingham, wedding photography, wedding photos, weddings
Photoshop – Image Enhancements – A Tilt/Shift Photoshop tutorial
“Adobe Photoshop, or simply Photoshop, is a graphics editing program developed and published by Adobe Systems. It is the current and primary market leader for commercial bitmap and image manipulation, and is the flagship product of Adobe Systems. It has been described as “an industry standard for graphics professionals” says Wikipedia,
Adobe’s Photoshop is a powerful work tool. As the whole world is pretty much using digital cameras now Adobe Photoshop is becoming a household name when it comes to editing photos. But, using Photoshop to do simple contrast and white balance changes seems a bit overkill for me, most cameras these days come with tools just for those jobs. All the time I am asked what programs i use to edit, store and look after my photos; what is a photo’s digital life like; how does a photo end up in a usable size and format. I am going to do a set of blogs covering these mini topics and try and cover some of the time when Photoshop should be used and when it should not be used.
For the first instalment, I am going to use a wedding shot of a bride and take it though the steps to making an photo suitable for online display.
A Tilt/Shift Photoshop tutorial
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( I am using CS3 extended, with Camera Raw 4.0, on a Windows Vista machine, any questions, ask away if i can answer them I will.)
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1) After you have the photos backed up, stored safe on your drive, its time to think about how you are going to use them. I pick photos for a use, rather than find a nice photo and think what can i use it for. It’s better to have an end product in mind. Adobe Bridge is the first step, so open Bridge and find your photo, click open.
2) If you are using a raw file, then Camera Raw should open as your RAW converter. Even if you are using JPEGS, you can still use Camera Raw to do a pre-edit on your photos and save them back into the folder. It’s a simple and useful way of editing on mass, but we want to take this photo into Photoshop and prep it for the web, giving it some sparkle along the way. So tweak your colours, your white balance and the rest of the normal changes, then open the photo into Photoshop using the OPEN button. I have increased the Saturation, Vibrancy, Fill light and introduced some slight vignetting to brighten up the corners.
3) You should now have a colour corrected photo open in Photoshop. For good practice I always create a duplicate copy of the layer and hide the background. Dunno why, it just makes me happier. If you need to use levels or curves to perfect the photo, now is a good time. Crop away to get the perfect look you’re after: cropping photos after you have started to put effects on the them is a not a good idea – its simpler to get it right in camera, then to perfect in the edit. Once happy with the photo, lets play with photoshop. I want to use a Tilt/Shift lens effect on the photo, its something that i think looks great on portraits.
4) Another layer is needed to create the blur, so duplicate the layer with your photo again, (you should have 3 layers the same), the background is hidden and 2 are visible. Using the top layer to work on, and making sure it’s highlighted, go up to your Filters menu (alt + t), select the Blurs menu then Lens Blur. ( If your not sure what all the sliders do, have a play and find out. Be creative, that’s what is all about.) Once you have your nicely blurred layer its time to mix it in to create our simple effect. We are going to use a layer mask, some funky gradients and the salt and pepper of the Photoshop world, the Dodge’n Burn tools. The Sponge tool will be used to highlight the bits we want to sparkle.
5) Open a layer mask (on the bottom of the layers selection box), making sure it’s going to effect the correct layer. Select the layer mask you just made, and ensure your colour selections are set to black and white. We are going to use the Gradient tool (G) with a Radial effect to mask the blur over the sections of the photo that we want in focus. When you have selected the black to transparent style in the gradient tool box, start the radial effect over the main feature of the photo moving away into the foreground. Once done, you get a good idea of how the effect can be used, it might take a few goes to get the perfect size and placement, I find a quick ctrl-alt-z (backstep) and redraw is the best way, but keeping the layer mask selected and using the levels (ctrl-L) can give fast control over the power and size of the effect.
6) The effect is pretty much complete – all that really needs doing now is dodge and burn to suit your creative style. Use the Sponge tool to create the contrasts that make the effect look more realistic. Its always a good idea to compare how real focus blur effects things and bring those into your digital work. Have a look at how the light would fall, how would it change after the effects that you have created?
7) Time to save your photo for the web, remember to size the image at a good size for how you intend to display it, there is no point in uploading 5mb files to the web. Use the Ctrl + Alt + I selection to size your work. Save as jpeg. If you want to use the SAVE FOR WEB tools, feel free to have a play, but i find unless you want a .gif or .png its not really needed.
8)Have a play, save the stuff you have just made and then have 5 minutes changing effects. Motion blurs, zig zag effects, ice effects, go crazy if you are going to edit in photoshop you might as well use 100% of the program.
E-mail me the results! Dave@davepiper.org.uk



















